Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
